Going Coconuts
Falling into the Spell of Mardi Gras
You know the song “I Put a Spell on You?” written by Screamin’ Jay Hawkins and immortalized by Nina Simone? Well, that’s how I felt absorbed into the intoxicating spell of Mardi Gras and its final five days known as “Deep Gras.” I woke up on Ash Wednesday in a deep purple haze, an aching head and a missing toenail. The bedroom was dusted in purple, gold and green glitter and random sequins. My closet looked like a sequined grenade had gone off.
Deep Gras cast a spell over me. It turned me into a raving parade marcher and goer, screaming and straining to catch Mardi Gras throws amid the crowds. David and I hauled off bags of beads, commemorative cups, Made in China tchotchkes and other cheap stuff that we certainly don’t need and now have to sort to decide what to keep for decorations next year, donate to recycling groups and toss. I am all about decluttering, but Deep Gras cast that spell on me. I wanted the merch just because I could catch it.
The commemorative cups will come in handy as spit cups. When I attend wine tastings and travel on wine trips, I always bring a stash of my own spit cups. For Anteprime Toscana we brought and gave away bags of Mardi Gras beads at vintner events. They became popular so we’ll do the same when we return to Italy in a few weeks.
And then there are the hand-decorated coconuts given out during the Krewe of Zulu Parade on Mardi Gras morning. I caught five coconuts which are now displayed on our dining room table.
So why the coconuts? Here’s a brief backstory:
The Zulu Social Aid & Pleasure Club was founded in 1909 and is New Orleans’ largest predominantly African-American carnival krewe. Like many of the krewe parades, there is a king and queen of Zulu, usually city big shots. One of the most famous kings of Zulu was Louis Armstrong who was crowned in 1949. On the morning of Lundi Gras- the Monday before Fat Tuesday- there is a ceremonial greeting of the kings of Zulu and Rex. The black king meets the white king in a show of solidarity.
Ah, traditions and rituals! They run deep here and to some may appear anti-woke. One example is the tradition that Zulu parade krewe members must wear blackface. Just for context, nearly all Mardi Gras parade float krewe members must be masked. The Zulu krewe chooses to go blackface. It caused a kerfuffle several years ago with a friend because some people were not aware of the tradition.
About the coconuts: Back in 1910, Krewe Zulu could not afford to buy beads, so they bought cheap bags of coconuts and painted them. Now they are coveted parade throws. The most desirable is the golden coconut. I landed one! Here’s a photo of my coconut collection:
There was a time in the 1980s when injuries from the tossed coconuts resulted in lawsuits. Coconut tossing was banned in 1987. However, the Louisiana state legislature passed the “Coconut Bill” to clear the Zulu club from any liability for any alleged coconut injuries. Coconuts returned as the official parade throw. Now days, the coconuts are lighter, drained of their milk and shaved to smooth them out. Krewe members tend to hand them out to parade goers, or lightly toss them
Getting klonked in the head by a Mardi Gras parade throw is a rite of passage. So is getting hit in the stomach by a marching drummer when you lean in too close. That happened to me the first time I attended Mardi Gras as a teenager. It happened again this year with I was whacked on my arm by a majorette’s baton.
Losing the toenail resulted from marching five miles in the Krewe of Hermes parade as Joan of Arc’s foot soldier. Or maybe it was from the day I clocked 22,000 steps on my pedometer. You trudge and shimmy for hours, sustained by fried chicken which appears to be the official grub of Mardi Gras parades.
Now the spell is over, and the city is still nursing a giant hangover. The body took a beating and needs down time. I am sorting through bags of Mardi Gras throws to once again toss, this time in the recycling bin.
But wait! St. Patrick’s Day is coming up. There will be more parades and green glitter. Parade float members toss cabbages and potatoes as signature throws.
I’ll stick with my coconuts
