Tuscan Field Trip: Lovely Lucca
A vibrant walkable walled city filled with culture and cafes
A recent trip to Lucca introduced us to the charms of this walled city and the wines produced nearby in the Colline Lucchesi, Colline Pisane, Montecarlo and Apuan Alps. The occasion was a program entitled “Vini delle Coste” which featured wines from coastal regions of Tuscany, Abruzzo and the Marche. Despite a busy schedule of technical tastings and master classes to learn about the four terroirs of the region, we had ample time to explore Lucca and try a few restaurants.
Known as the “City of Art,” Lucca is surrounded by well-preserved Renaissance era walls which are now popular pedestrian paths. The historic city centre is filled with piazzas and preserved monuments including the Cathedral of San Martino, the Basilica di San Michele and Guinigi Tower. Being the birthplace of notable composers, including Giacomo Puccini and Alfredo Catalani, Lucca is also the “City of Music.” There are several musical events each month and a Summer Music Festival held in July. A highlight during our visit was a private tour of the Puccini Museum located in the building where Giacomo Puccini was born and the Teatro del Giglio Giacomo Puccini. Our tour guide was the dapper Luigi Viani, director of the Fondazione Giacomo Puccini which was founded in 1972 by the City Council of Lucca and spearheaded by Rita Dell’Anna Puccini, daughter-in-law of the composer.
We stayed at the four-star Hotel Ilaria which is located just inside the walls of the city centre. The rooms were clean and cozy. The staff accommodated my request for extra pillows and a mattress bolster since the best was hard on my back. The hotel offers a bed and breakfast package and an evening happy hour. When we were there several American tourists were guests.
Lucca is a city for people who enjoy walking, and everyone appears fit and relaxed. We walked the entire perimeter of the walls, along with families and people walking their dogs. We had to smile at the number of leashed dogs at the wine tastings we attended art the historic Real Collegio of Lucca. That would never happen at wine tastings in the United States.
American friends who live in Lucca told us the city attracts ex-pats for its quality of life and access to many attractions. Lucca is an easy drive to Florence, Pisa, Siena and the Tuscan coast. One evening we took a car service to Viareggio on the beach for dinner fresh-caught seafood at Da Giorgio. Another afternoon, we drove up into the nearby hills to visit Villa Santo Stefano, a wine estate and rentable villa that once belonged to the Bertolli olive oil family. It is now owned by German industrialist, Wolfgang Reitzle. The wines - mainly Bordeaux blends- are fabulous.
More on the wines in a separate article. Here are some of the restaurants we visited:
Ristorante Buca di Sant’ Antonio
This is one of the city’s oldest restaurants dating back more than 200 years. Located near Piazza San Michele, Buca di Sant’ Antonio is popular with tourists, and many wine industry friends recommended it. Dozens of copper pots hang from the ceilings of the main dining rooms. Handmade pasta and traditional Tuscan meat dishes are the specialties of the house. This restaurant has a Michelin star.
Ristorante Buca di Sant'Antonio- Via della Cervia, 3 - Telephone: +39 0583 55881
L'Imbuto
Prepare for an adventurous dining journey with no road map- as in no menu- at L’Imbuto. Chef Cristiano Tomei is a big personality who creates “inspired” tasting menus based on what’s seasonal and singing to his senses. It was one of the more unusual and longer dinners we had. All the dishes, about 10- 12 with starters, were bite size. I figure I had 24 bites in all. The meal ended with a delivery of pizza takeout boxes. Inside was a splotch of deconstructed pizza topping. Fortunately, the aged Rieslings and red blends from Maestà della Formica delivered a more lasting finish and left a more lingering impression with us. If you are into concept tasting menus and dining bragging rights with Michelin star recognition, this restaurant is for you.
Ristorante L’Imbuto- Piazza del Collegio, 7 Telephone +39 331 9308931
Miglio 50
This airy, art-filled family-run restaurant near Piazza Cittadella Puccini offered a nice lunch with local friends who recommended it. I was particularly pleased to see vegetarian options on the menu which is always a challenge for me when visiting Tuscany. I enjoyed my shaved artichoke salad and cecina farinata (chickpea flour flatbread) with stracciatelli burrata and crudo di gamberi rossi with herbs.
Restaurant in Lucca - Miglio 50 - Corte San Lorenzo 1-3 Telephone: +39 0583 14 10 056
Osteria Gigliola, Corso Garibaldi
It’s a wine bar, a gastropub serving fusion fare and killer breads. It’s light on the food and heavy on the variety of wines. We were told it is the casual sibling of the more refined Ristorante Giglio which we did not have time to visit. Next trip!
Gigliola Lucca | Tavern- Corso Garibaldi 17 Telephone: +39 0583392818
Bonny Pizza
We had a rollicking pizza night with the wine producers at Bonny Pizza. The pies were all fabulous. Given the rabbit imagery inside maybe the name should be Bunny Pizza.
Bonny Pizza- Piazza S.Francesco 2 Telephone: +39 0583 057642
Enoteca Vanni Lucca
This is a wine aficionado’s wine shop with multiple cellars and areas to sit, taste and savor. The selections are impressive, including many older and collectible vintages and not only Italian. Wine classes are offered, and there is a wine bar next door where we met friends for an apertivo before our dinner at Buca Sant’ Antonio.
Enoteca Vanni - Piazza S. Salvatore 7 - 55100 Lucca - Tel. e Fax 0583.491902
Ristorante Da Giorgio (Viareggio)
Located in Viareggio overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea this family run restaurant is known for its fresh seafood dishes. The walls are filled with work from local artists, famous faces and opera programs from La Scala. Hire a driver and get ready for seafood so fresh it waves and winks at you when you enter the restaurant. Papa Giorgio oversees the kitchen and son, Guido, manages the dining room
Ristorante Da Giorgio- Via Giuseppe Zanardelli 71, Viareggio Telephone: +39 0584 44493
Here is a helpful website for planning a trip to Lucca: www.turismo.lucca.it
